Sure, the city’s river may be substituting for the Aegean, but the spirit is the same: a relaxed, unpretentious restaurant with hospitality and warmth at the forefront. Dine outside along banquettes to admire the liquid vista, or be entertained by the amiable and knowledgeable team inside at the bar.

Classic Greek fare leads the menu here: saganaki, spanakopita and moussaka. Fish comes just as it is, with a piece of flame-tailed snapper crispy skinned with its only accompaniment a petite tangle of braised tomato and fennel, calling for a side, say, of the risotto-like spanakorizo loaded with wilted spinach and lemon.

Lemon shines its brightest, however, in a must-order riff on lemon meringue pie, boasting soft, torched meringue hiding silky, vibrant lemon curd and a biscuit crumble. Pair it with a Greek muscat from the wine list which stretches to all corners of the globe, with a versatile and varied by-the-glass offering; or perhaps choose one of their Mediterranean spins on classic cocktails.

For home-style Greek food with service that goes above and beyond, Greca will send you straight to the Hellenic.

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