The Greek meze of the Gods, taramasalata, is made from the salted and cured roe of cod (grey mullet and carp, too). Whipped into a creamy delight with lemon, olive oil and potato or bread, it’s the crack of dips, and sounds like a dance you’d do before your final shot of ouzo.

Nevertheless, at Greca, Brisbane’s latest riverside Greek restaurant (from the team behind Sydney’s award-winning The Apollo), the taramasalata is compulsory. At least it should be. It’s crowned with salmon roe and comes with either freshly baked flatbread or fries. I’m a fan of the former.

And just as The Apollo smashed our perceptions of Greek restaurants, Greca is making waves within the new heritage listed Howard Smith Wharves precinct.

Owner Jonathan Barthelmess and group executive chef Nic Wong are giving Brisbane a Med makeover with a two-level setting boasting attention to detail to rival any restaurant in town. But this is no stiff, fine-dining forum. Greca is a relaxed affair where everyone is welcome for a feast that would please Bacchus and Dionysus.

Interior designer George Livissianis has released his inner Mediterranean island taverna with white and blue, blond timbers, polished concrete floors and cane furniture. There’s an eat-at bar and open kitchen fuelled by a fire pit, and it all sprawls out to an alfresco setting for those who like to watch the deep blue as they sip on a Greca Spritz (lemon, Otto’s ‘Athens’ Vermouth, mastica, prosecco, rosemary). Be warned, it’s got a kick.

It’s a beautiful setting, and the smart and sincere swagger of waitstaff makes it ideal to just sit back and enjoy the culinary credentials of Wong and Barthelmess.

There’s a range of small dishes to share, but fans of The Apollo will be pleased to see the signature seared saganaki cheese, bubbling in honey and oregano, and the wild weed and cheese spanakopita. Order the trifecta with taramasalata to complete your long, languid lunch.

Red emperor shines marinated in lemon juice, and makes a stellar salad with grapefruit, orange, witlof and fried capers. There’s a raft of seafood destined for the grill – sardines with a tomato and onion salad, octopus with potato and oregano, and calamari with lemon and thyme. And, of course, it’s hard to pass on the baked lamb shoulder. But a gorgeously grilled pork chop on a bed of garlic and parsley chimichurri is a nice alternative. Served with what I’m calling my new favourite side dish – okra, blistered cherry tomatoes, mint and vinegar – it’s hard to fault.

Dessert doesn’t alter these pleasing perceptions. Barthelmess’ homage to his hometown pastry, katoumari, sees buttery filo backed by walnuts and semolina cream. It’s so good, you’ll find it hard to say taramasalata when you’re done.