Grossi Florentino is a masterclass in top-end, old-school Italian hospitality. Its famously ornate dining room, resplendent with Renaissance murals and sparkly chandeliers, is a sight to behold, steeped in tradition to match the old-school service that’s obliging and chivalrous with doors opened in welcome and at meal’s end, jackets proffered and taxis called by waistcoated waiters.

In between, you’ll experience something altogether more modern.

Your minimum three courses will be supplemented with snacks –mod-style canapes that show technique and goodwill.

Entrees skew to seafood, such as a risotto given a subtle taste of the sea with supple cuttlefish. But don’t go past the stunning simplicity of ravioli primed to ooze its egg yolk heart with a sideways glance.

Velvety fork-tender goat made dark and sticky with chestnut flower honey is lush and balanced. Or lean lighter with a frisky tomato and saffron broth holding clams, broad beans and a fleshy fillet of bass grouper.

Desserts are miniature masterpieces. Be swept up in the ethereal soufflé that’s like chancing upon a floating chocolate cloud.

Dishes are allied to a cellar that runs deep with some of Italy’s finest. You’ll pay for the privilege of your time here, but a happy marriage of old and new awaits.

Must eat dish: Ravioli with egg yolk
Instagram: @grossiflorentino