Thai, Nonya and Indian foods might not seem like natural menu partners until you’ve dined at Hanuman. Tender little masala-spiced lamb chops happily follow oysters doused in lemongrass, basil, ginger, chilli and coriander; Nonya satay chicken is a fine prelude to a roasted duck red curry, studded with lychees and cherry tomatoes, or pork belly cooked Thai style. Owner Jimmy Shu has also included a nod to his Sri Lankan childhood in the meen moolie of wild-caught saltwater barramundi with gently spiced coconut sauce.

What brings these dishes together is Shu’s meticulous approach, including his insistence on freshly roasted, freshly ground spices. His attention to detail shows, too, in the carefully chosen mismatched plates, the curated wine and cocktail list, the moody lighting inside and the timber deck outside. Although service can be patchy, the food is consistently good.

There’s a second Hanuman in Alice Springs, which is also worth a visit.