Sweet and sour pork or lemon chicken are the last things you’ll find on the menu at this authentic, regional Chinese-focused eatery at the quiet end of The Valley.

Having moved from their cosy Spring Hill location, the 2.0 version of the popular family-run restaurant still keeps the minimal vibe, but this time opts for a light, breezy, almost clinical feel with painted white concrete walls, polished concrete floors and Scandi-inspired furniture. The plan by brothers Cameron and Jordan Votan was to keep the look austere and let the food shine – and it’s worked.

The menu is a feast of traditional delicacies from Cantonese favourites like the beef chow ho fun featuring slippery flat rice noodles and beef strips – punchy with soy and a hint of sesame, alongside sprouts and scallions for crunch; to Sichuan delights like the seemingly infinite bowl of drowned fish, with copious firm-fleshed fillets in a thin, sweet-sour-spicy soup.

The house fried rice is a must – generous with duck pieces, as is the braised beef stew, bountiful with hunks of achingly tender brisket in a complex and meaty broth which soak into hand-tied knots of thin noodles, which then burst in the mouth.

An ever-changing wine list projected onto a blank wall above the bar provides a succinct line up well-matched to the food, while there are a number of Asian beers by the bottle, perhaps better suited to some of the fiery Sichuan dishes.

With most meals under $20 and servings large enough to feed a footy team, Happy Boy delivers serious value without the frills.

Must eat dish: Braised beef stew with noodle knots
Instagram: @happyboybris