Forget sweet and sour pork or beef and black bean, it’s all about authentic, regional Chinese cuisine at this buzzing, brash and lively eatery, just outside the hubbub of Fortitude Valley.

With service varying from warm and attentive to unobservant and absent, it’s the food that diners come to the minimalist, concrete-heavy restaurant for. Portions are beyond generous and prices are cheap, making this a terrific spot for groups on a budget.

Start, perhaps, with the pork and prawn wontons, pleasantly soft and slippery in a chilli infused broth, before a bowl of boiled quail eggs rolled in salt and pepper that pop in the mouth. The nuanced and layered beef brisket stew is a must, as is the mapo tofu, just be sure to order a good mix of wet and dry dishes as too many fried plates can get a little greasy.

Helping with that though is the eclectic wine list with an ever changing by-the-glass offering projected onto the wall above the bar. Favouring interesting small producers, the list also enables diners to take home a bottle they like.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Beef brisket stew with noodle knots, mapo tofu