There is, however, seating on the deck beneath the fairy-lit trees fronting East St, which presents a quieter option when the traffic dies down.

Customers stream in: families, couples, groups of friends, all settling in beneath the soundtrack and ordering from the well-priced menu that offers a $45 chef’s banquet for those who want to keep it simple or a one-page list that runs from spring rolls to little burgers of Taiwanese chicken on milk buns, roast duck pancakes or steamed prawn and pork wontons in chilli broth, through to vegetable, seafood, meat, rice and noodle dishes. A heaped plate of eggplant with chunks of crunchy roast pork belly and preserved vegetables is good value at $18.

The most expensive dishes are $30 for Chinese barbecue half roast duck or crispy pork belly, slow-cooked beef cheek or salt and pepper prawns. Service is businesslike but cheery as staff deal with a large volume of customers and takeaway orders.

A clever, single-page global wine list explores off-the-beaten-track options. This is a one-of-a-kind destination, driven by value and big flavours where most diners seem to visit for a good time not a long time. 

To read our full list of reviews for Queensland, head here.