Arthur Hardy, who built the opulent Hills residence which now houses Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant, would be tickled pink by what his former abode has become.

Both he and subsequent owner Arthur Waterhouse were apparently known for lavish soirees, and it’s easy to imagine each of them sipping a barrel-aged negroni while perusing the inch-thick wine list which is among the best in the state.

Take a seat by the windows that provide a glorious view of the Piccadilly Valley and settle into the swing of things with a morsel of smoked potato puree in a delicate pastry cup.

The cooking of HVR chef Jin Choi is creative without being gauche. You might even forgive him the Vegemite butter that comes with the bread, kept warm with heated stones.

Pork belly focuses on the rich flavor of the meat, rather than crackling crunch, with white kimchi and an apple puree providing balance.

King george whiting swims in a kombu butter sauce that, while a powerful flavor for the fish, is very satisfying. A wide strip of dried kombu, much more than a garnish, has a cracker-like snap.

A gratin of pumpkin on the vegetarian side of the menu delivers texture as well as taste, the pumpkin so thinly sliced it’s almost crisp to the bite.

A “croissant” of folded apple tarte tatin with walnut ice cream and salted caramel might leave you wondering how anyone can fit a fourth course in.