Hartsyard has officially hung up its cowboy boots. The one-time rockabilly diner is moving beyond the 1950s and entering a new era of refined, contemporary eats. These days, you’re more likely to find confit swede and onion ash on the menu at Hartsyard than the fried chicken and peanut butter sundaes for which it became known. Leading the raft of changes is head chef Jarrod Walsh and partner Dot Lee, who took over the reins earlier this year. Without the easy wins of American fried food, they’ve had to flex their creative muscles and refine their technique. Kangaroo tartare is scooped up with a tendon cracker, a puffy piece of collagen that delivers a fierce crunch before dissolving on the tongue with a fizz. Fried cheese puffs have the texture of stretched rubber and a pepped up queso kick, thanks to liberal use of the three G’s, gouda, Gruyere and Grana Padano. Salted pumpkin ribbons spiral on the plate like something dropped by a gymnast, the sweet, earthy flavours tied together with stracciatella and a vibrant pepita pesto. Mop up the milky curds with a slice of brewery bread made from spent grains sourced from Young Henry’s down the road. New head bartender Paddy O’Rourke has redesigned the drinks list, expanding the selection of natural wines and sakes, while trading up the cheap tinnies for local craft ales. The venue also has a new look to match, with panels of tattoo-inspired illustrations, by local artist Isabel Williams. Giddy up.