Out in the Barossa’s northwest, just beyond the Seppeltsfield complex, Hentley Farm is a quintessential Australian idyll, historic stone buildings superbly restored in their delightful landscape with a cellar door and separate restaurant that offers two dining spaces in a modernised barn and more contemporary room with a view.

Head chef Lachlan Colwill has always championed his team to serve and “chefsplain” their meals at tables, and now has morphed his role into maitre-d’ as well, joining kitchen and hospitality into a new democracy.

Lunch is either an exciting four or seven-course journey while dinner is only the seven, both stretching much further with multiple starter snacks and desserts plus petit fours. The serving of several dishes can be quite theatrical, such as oysters with a tangy pear cider vinegar and vino cotto dressing staged with dry ice.

Signature dishes are much adored: tuna, chicken liver parfait with iceberg leaf and cured egg at one stage, fun, palate- teasing dessert popsicles standing tall at the finale. Estate grown garden leaves and flowers add to a list of superbly crafted produce for one of our finest regional dining experiences.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.