With the elevation of chef Matt Carulei, this plush city haunt has really hit its straps. Carulei knows his French technique and imparts some of his northern English upbringing, without losing sight of Asia as a key influence in the modern Australian kitchen. A side dish of triple-cooked chips – fat, crisp and fluffy inside – paired with a trio of Wagin duck, salt-baked pineapple and Sichuan caramel tastes like a tongue-in-cheek riff on Chinese takeaway. Perhaps not Carulei’s intention, but no less delicious.