With its bold dishes and happy relief from the shopping centre, Hermosa mostly lives up to its namesake promise of being Spanish for beautiful, writes Anooska Tucker-Evans.
A mystery white powder coats the top of our jug of sangria, and there’s more suspended on top of the red wine brew.
As I bury my nose deep in the jug to analyse the unexplained dust, the bartender bolts over to announce they’ve run out of cinnamon for our “Winter Tinto” so have replaced it with chai powder. I guess you have to give him points for thinking outside the box, but using a product that usually contains milk powder with wine is perhaps not mixology at its best.

Thankfully, he remakes the drink – chosen from the basic but substantial Spanish-inspired list – sans chai and it’s just fine. Yet that is the only hiccup at Hermosa, a modern and sleek Spanish eatery at the renovated Westfield Chermside from restaurateur Leon McNiece (Ole Tapas, Suki and Ramen).
Situated in the centre’s new outdoor dining precinct, Hermosa (Spanish for beautiful) lives up to its name by offering a light-filled, relaxing retreat from the bustling shops with a contemporary fitout and open kitchen at its heart. The reasonably priced menu ranges from tapas and salads to paella and whole-roasted chicken.

The empanadas boast an almost biscuity crust, exploding with finely diced chorizo and a garlicky onion and capsicum sauce – so juicy the accompanying tomato dipping mixture is near redundant. Conversely, the beef and chorizo meatballs are a little dry and beg for a smothering in the partnered capsicum and tomato sauce.

Bold flavours unite in a salad of paprika-scented cauliflower “rice”, steamed broccolini, charred Brussels sprouts and smoked chicken. But the best dish is the beef tostadas with their crisp, freshly fried corn chips balancing slow-cooked beef and tangy coleslaw. Efficient service ensures Hermosa will keep hungry shoppers happy.
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