Hero is Karen Martini’s saving grace for tourist-trap ACMI.
Her all-day eatery at Federation Square marries contemporary cuisine with modern art. If paintings of Nick Cave and Kylie Minogue don’t get your juices flowing, then Martini’s Mediterranean-inspired cooking and dessert queen Philippa Sibley’s le baci bombe will.
The sweet sanga squishes chocolate, hazelnut and vanilla ice cream inside a fluffy brioche bun, crowned with gold leaf – it’s deliciously Melbourne on a plate. The calm and welcoming dining room is a mix of blue, grey and white tones with industrial elements woven throughout.
There are shareable starters, land and sea proteins such as fish, chicken and steak, as well as pastas and sweets. Start with a hefty wedge of potato bread dotted with fermented blueberries and served with a tangy goat’s curd before moving onto the leading role: a perfectly roasted chook with cameos of cavolo nero, beans, bread sauce and a lip-smacking jus gras made from the drippings.
Hero may perform to the visiting crowds, but goes above and beyond to get locals around the table, time and again.

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