Heading home, the lingering flavour might be the zing of a truly fine lemon brulee tart. Of course, it’s the finale on the palate, but ponder further and recollections of equally punchy savouries will come to the fore because Quentin Whittle and his team know how to pack in the big flavours.

A jaunty crew out front complements this with menu-steering skills helping you meld preferred dishes into a perfect set. Or, leave all the choices up to them.

To start, the deep hues of red peppers with capers and grilled green tomatoes awaken the appetite, alongside a subtle puddle of creamy bottarga turned into pure fun with freshly puffed and curly thin potato crisps on the side. Mains are big and meaty, the slow-roasted lamb shoulder with baba ghanoush, chillies and grilled lemon all about comfort. The same goes for light nubs of gnocchi, toasted in the pan, with porcini mushrooms and brown sage butter.

The waiter suggests more heartiness in garlic and rosemary potatoes, along with a refreshing foil of iceberg lettuce nicely boosted with cooling flavours of honeydew, nuts and buttermilk vinaigrette. On fine days, footpath and courtyard dining draw a crowd.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.