Upstairs at Craft’d Grounds, the former timber mill turned hospitality hub, Herve’s menu begins with puffed potato topped with caviar, cheesy choux pastry balls, baked Flinders Island scallops or duck and foie gras pate.

The main course line-up boasts a cold seafood platter and options such as Moreton Bay bug or Murray cod; succulent pork with native spices, roast pumpkin, lentil and pomegranate jus; perhaps a perfectly cooked Black Angus tenderloin or a 1kg wagyu T-bone. A standout is the ravioli of western rock lobster, with caviar an optional extra.

The wine list is global, offering a broad array of price points, and unusually, a page of Corsican varieties. Desserts are terrific, with a starry chocolate confection topped with hazelnut nougatine and roasted vanilla ice cream encircled by Pedro Ximenez-soaked sultanas.

Service is a strong point under the supervision of the restaurant’s namesake Herve Dudognon, with the May opening quickly moving into top gear.

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