Part of the burgeoning and strikingly designed Craft’d Grounds precinct, Hervés Restaurant and Bar presents French-informed food and wine for a new dining age. 

The first thing diners notice when entering the sophisticated locale, where timber accents bring warmth to an astutely decorated space, is an open kitchen beckoning diners further inside.

During his esteemed career, French-born co-owner and venue namesake Hervé Dudognon has worked in some of the world’s best-admired kitchens, for guests that have included pop music icons and presidents. In his first restaurant venture, he’s joined by his wife Cristina and his business partner David Lyons and brings his gastronomic prowess to Queensland’s capital. 

While Hervé Dudognon’s culinary techniques may be steeped in classic French tradition, the élan with which he executes each of his menu’s dishes befits an unquestionably contemporary dining scene. 

Curated in close collaboration with lauded husband-and-wife culinary team, Executive chef Chris Norman and executive pastry chef Alex Norman, the Hervé’s menu sees fresh produce cooked over coal and meticulous attention paid to each detail. 

To begin, a refined amuse bouche selection brings the likes of coal-fired Flinders Island scallops to the table, alongside a soon-to-be-famed house-made sourdough baguette flanked by and extra virgin olive oil whipped butter and red gum salt. 

In true French tradition, for entrée diners are treated to delicate yet flavoursome fare, including a potato and leek velouté, an Aylesbury duck and foie gras paté en croute, a memorable rock lobster ravioli and a steak tartare of hand-cut black Angus steak. 

Oysters, chilled seafoods and caviar-topped buttermilk crumpets celebrate the restaurant’s locality, with Fraser Island and Moreton Bay catches brought to the fore and Scenic Rim’s Tommerup’s Dairy crème fraiche stealing attention. 

Following steaks, main courses invite diners to watch their fillet of Murray Cod prepared in the wood-fired oven before being dressed with finger lime, wakame and smoked beurre blanc. And, an surprise package of artichoke and Little Acre Mushroom fricassee, teamed with broad means, cavatelli and amaranth, is an ode to cleverly layered textures. 

On the side, a coal-roasted cauliflower gratin offers the comfort of French-style cooking with a side serve of modern flair. 

On the dessert menu, we see Alex Norman’s talents at play – particularly in an ambrosial moelleux chocolat valrhona millot with Pedro Ximinez, roasted vanilla ice cream – in itself, a triumph – and hazelnut nougatine, which would be a shame not to order. 

To complete the meal, an enticing choice of cheeses, signature affogato and a caviar mille feuillle make for a grand finale. 

Of course, no decent deep-dive into French cuisine would be complete without a pouring of vin, and house sommelier Thibaud Cregut keeps guests well-watered with local and French drops. 

Katie Cameron is behind the chic interiors here, which, along with the sophisticated yet approachable menu, reflect the evolving nature of Brisbane’s dining culture – and the city’s residents’ appetite for change.

Related review: Craft’d Grounds delivers fresh fans for neighbourhood favourite