It’s not hard to see the attraction, then, for city-based restaurateurs George Kasimatis (Georges on Waymouth), Peter Louca (Louca’s Seafood) and Angela Papas (Diaspora Kouzina) who are the wise heads behind HNLY, a clever blend of informal Mediterranean restaurant and bar in an old apartment with a balcony that overlooks the square.

The best tables (only a couple of them) are out there but most diners will find themselves in a room that eschews the overt blue-and-white maritime or Greek theme for a neutral palette of beige/ stone/mocha.

The cooking, on the other hand, has its focus firmly on the ocean. Fritto misto of local calamari tube and tentacles are the deep golden colour of a cornflake and come with a small dish of fragrant, mildly-acidic chermoula. A hefty fillet of “South Australian deep-sea perch” is floured and fried to create a coating that sucks up the brown butter emulsion with which it is finished. Fried sage leaves and pine nuts are inlaid on the surface, while a bed of wilted English spinach underneath works to cut through the richness.

Blue swimmer crab meat gives a bowl of spaghetti a lovely aroma but its impact is a little lost among breadcrumbs and an intense mix of chilli and “sun-blistered tomatoes”.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.