This funky, eye-squintingly dark, Japanese-fusion restaurant is hidden at the end of a dingy alleyway behind the iconic Wickham Hotel, its front door occasionally obscured by a dumpster, with nothing but a post card-sized plaque on the front wall bearing its name.

But despite its somewhat sketchy location, it’s become one of Brisbane’s most popular restaurants and bars. Only taking bookings until 6.30pm or for groups of eight or more, hungry diners can expect lengthy waits for a table — especially at weekends.

Not to worry, though, there is a terrific cocktail bar inside with table service to keep guests occupied until their name is called. And it’s a place worth your patience. The share-style menu at the buzzing, lively establishment includes bites of all sizes, from a daily-changing sashimi selection and canape-like tuna-filled drumsticks to dumplings, even slow-cooked beef short rib.

The Moreton Bay bug katsu sando — sweet pressed crustacean coated in breadcrumbs and fried until golden, squeezed between two slices of fluffy white bread with a thick slab of cabbage slaw — has become a signature with good reason. While the miso aburi tuna delivered as bite-sized, citrusy tacos is doing its best to topple it. All the food is drink-friendly, and although there is an interesting line up of wines from smaller producers, it’s the quirkily named, Asian-inspired cocktails that are the hero. Let the well-drilled, if slightly rushed staff help guide your drink choices and settle in for a fun night.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Katsu sando, sesame and dark chocolate mousse with shiitake mushroom ice cream