Let’s just hope hospitality king Justin Hemmes is as much of an art enthusiast as Anthony Medich, who went to great lengths to infuse a contemporary vision into an old favourite by featuring modern photographic portraits and video art throughout the venue.

Hemmes continued to expand Merivale’s eastern suburbs portfolio with the purchase of the Woollahra institution from the Medich family last Tuesday — just two weeks after snapping up Bondi’s Royal Hotel.

But since that hadn’t happened yet on the day the marriage equality result came down, hotel acquisitions were far from our minds as we tried to put our finger on the venue’s intriguing interior design.

A cosy drawing room with a fireplace, bookshelf, high-backed chairs and a luxurious couch created the illusion of being inside one of Woollahra’s grand estates. Hours could be whiled away here playing late night poker while chomping on a cigar.

With its comfortable and unique combination of couches, antiques, homely curtains, chess board, grand piano and lamps casting a warm glow over its multiple nooks and crannies, it does feel like stepping into the private home of a well-heeled local, or perhaps a tasteful country club or up-market Aspen ski resort.

The food certainly rose to the occasion.

Talented young chef Tom Deadman took the reins from Justin North last month as executive chef.

The pair have worked closely for the best part of Deadman’s Australian career, including at the two-hatted Becasse and Quarter Twenty One, another of North’s venues.

Since 2014, Deadman has been at Hotel Centennial where he oversees a seasonal, constantly evolving menu that he describes as an “up-market take on modern comfort food”.

“The food you would be cooking at home but with amazing produce and cooked with integrity and finesse,” he said.

The Roast Vic’s corn-fed chicken ($39) is a case in point. It is brined for six hours before being vacuum packed with lemon oil and cooked sous vide for two-and-a-half hours, then chargrilled and finished in a pan with butter, thyme and garlic.

Served with sauteed Tuscan cabbage, pine nuts, currants, capers and roast cauliflower, which was purple (an heirloom variety and wonderful freak of nature), the dish was homely and exceptionally tasty.

The King Trout pastrami ($25), served with roast baby beetroot and horseradish buttermilk was a fresh and vibrant combination, and we loved the light and summery simplicity of the steamed pink snapper ($37), with cucumber salad, soy and lemon oil.