Long considered to be the centre of Sydney, Parramatta has never been over-represented in the finer end of dining, but the area is home to a fragrant melting pot of cuisines – particularly Middle Eastern. In many ways, it epitomises the influence of multiculturalism, where we come together at the communal table.

So when I head west and grab a seat at the spanking new Husk & Vine, that wonderful sense of inclusiveness quickly makes me feel at home.

Housed in a precinct where the new five-star Skye Hotel presides, it is built on the location of the former Wheatsheaf Hotel. Designed by SITE Hospitality, the fit-out features wooden floorboards, semi-casual chairs with cushions, banquettes, a bar and open kitchen. Historic artefacts dating from around 1840 that were unearthed during the archaeological excavation are showcased high above the dining room’s perimeter.

The razor-sharp staff work the room well. The drinks list, with a creative cocktail offering, caters for budget diners and those looking for a big night.

In the kitchen, culinary director Stephen Seckold (Flying Fish, Salaryman) and head chef Ashley Brennan present global ingredients with contemporary flair.

Fried chicken thighs are given a nice za’atar and oregano twist. Creamy burrata sits atop garlic bread with raisins and pinenuts for a luxurious dish to dive into.

The rich flavour of Riverine tenderloin steak is enhanced with a rub of baharat. An accompanying watercress salad, chunky chips and lemon cheek is bang on. Then pavlova meringue is joined by velvet orange blossom cream and tangerine for a most pleasing homecoming.