The result is spectacular fine dining without pretension: Ides’ pared-back dining room, and charming wait staff all set the tone for this.

It’s hard to fault any of the 12 dishes on the set menu, with each showcasing vibrant colours and careful consideration of every visual element, right down to crockery. The Australia dessert, a concoction of coconut, mandarin, chocolate and lime shaped like the nation just pips the fried scallop salad served in a seashell for the prettiest plate.

The tastiest is a three-way tie between the juicy mustard and finger lime-marinated barramundi, delicate caviar tart and sweet and salty sea bream and persimmon with nori crisp. But even the simplest dish, sourdough slathered in Collingwood-made wagyu fat butter, is a winner.

Ides’ cheekiness is seen in the long wine list, with drops under titles like “gaudy and unreserved” and “headstrong and companionable”.

Don’t think you’re getting dessert without working for it: diners must solve a puzzle box to enjoy the final course, a sesame snap, which is no mean feat after many pleasant hours eating and drinking.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.