In this fast-casual world of restaurants, Igni restores faith in fine dining. The moves here are more freestyle than fussy, but this is nevertheless a place to dress up, show up and be wowed by stunning food.

Igni (Latin for “from fire”) also possesses that elusive X factor – a humble sense of self, location and an execution that’s above gimmicks and pretension.

Chef and co-owner Aaron Turner, the prodigal son of Loam fame, is back to blistering form. His fire-fuelled cooking is sharp and confident in simple yet mind-blowing combos over five or eight excellent-value courses.

Dishes are guaranteed to stick in your mind the next day, like the opening flurry of snacks – maybe grilled baby zucchini flowers containing just-cooked local mussels, and saltbush leaves dusted with vinegar powder, which take salt and vinegar chips to a whole new level.

You’ll remember, too, the charred, smoky cabbage encasing a fleshy fillet of perfectly cooked cod, all in an exquisite subtle marron sauce. Ditto the silky strands of potato noodles, twirled over a smoked pipi and topped with a glorious sunshiney yolk.

And you definitely won’t forget the honeycomb rubble under amazingly vivid onion ice cream that’s one part luxe and one part Saturday-morning Bunnings sausage sizzle.

And hope for the cheese course to be tete de moine, a treat for the eyes and the tongue with its melty layers finely shaved to resemble a carnation.

The well-priced wine list is concise but action packed, championing local labels and tending towards the natural and experimental.

All this is backed by service that carries efficient warmth, and is attentive but never onerous despite the compact size of the room.

Igni’s location in the backblocks of Geelong gives street cred (a la Melbourne’s once-gritty laneways), and it can be hard to find, but rewards are ripe for the picking.

Only in its second year, the maturity of Igni already belies its youth, offering a beautifully crafted and worthwhile experience. Fine dining has never felt so alive and relevant.

Must eat dish: Potato, yolk, pipi
Instagram: @restaurantigni