Pick a wine or cocktail and succumb to the surprises of Geelong’s fire-fuelled and arguably finest restaurant (after dietary requirements are ironed out, of course).

Igni’s “surprise set-course menu” doesn’t disappoint, starting with a narrative that begins in a different place for each visitor. It is ripe with amazing produce – and even better local stories. Take the tale of the green figs plucked from a century-old Drysdale tree owned by a 90-year-old man (they “grew up together”), which are served with cumquat marmalade.

Sample six diverse snacks for two, including whipped cod roe on baked chicken skin (or baked radicchio for pescetarians), that have distinct flavours and balance, then follow through with crumpets, pipis and flora, Murray cod made two ways, “monk’s head” semi-hard Swiss cheese and pine needle-infused yoghurt.

Each will have you gleefully lost deep in a fable, the main characters a compelling dining plot. The secret menu is bespokely printed for each patron at the end of their experience.

Igni, which is Latin for fire, is many things: intimate (there are only 20 seats) with exceptional hospitality that’s informative, refined, unpretentious and top tier.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.