At Iki-Jime, the Vue crew reels in the best sustainable seafood they can lay their hands on, cooks it over cherrywood and charcoal, and presents it beautifully.

You pay a high price, of course, for premium produce but this ‘sister’ venue to Vue de Monde delivers on every front. Ike-Jime’s service (helmed by long-time manager David Wilson) is ship shape. The wine list is ocean deep. And the aquarium-dark dining room puts the open kitchen’s Josper grill front and centre. Whole whiting comes drizzled with a brown butter sauce. Coffs Harbour octopus ripples around smoked eggplant. Add hand-cut chips and a fennel salad and you’re sailing.

Ink-dark Iki-Jime knows how to rock the boat as well. “Fish & chips” turns out to be coils of raw tuna coddling fried potato and leek, while Moreton Bay bug meat is jemmied into brittle pastry with kelp ‘fudge’. A vision of seafood-first dining, Iki-Jime has us hooked.

Must Eat Dish: Moreton Bay bug tart