Il Lido has an air of seaside déjà vu. Art Deco ceilings, a coloured strip curtain blowing in the doorway, curvy glass coke bottles and kids playing board games while the parents order another bottle. An antidote to concept dining and the latest trend.

It’s worthy of a nod to Nic Tromboli, the hand behind many a WA icon, who cemented Il Lido’s place in Cottesloe consciousness, but equally to the new owners. On previous visits Il Lido had seemed to have lost its spark; a little too worn around the edges, the signs of decline were plain to see. Canny restaurateurs know when to move on – and when to move in.

Enter Dan Wegener and Lyndon Waples and Il Lido is once more a picture of la dolce vita. The espresso bar at the front spills onto the street; the long tables in the dining room a patchwork of age, sex and social groups, from well heeled Cott locals to blow-ins dreaming of one day having a local like this, and the lotto win that could make it a reality.

Wegener, is the one time Sommelier at Quay and later Print Hall. When he hit the Perth scene back in 2012 it was big news. He made an impact, winning a stack of awards at Perth’s new dining star.

Four years later the picture is different. Chefs and high-profile hospo professionals heading west is becoming the norm, but perhaps with Wegener becoming an owner-operator we’re seeing a new phase in Perth’s dining development.

Waples, is no less steeped in hospitality, rising through the ranks to MD at Colonial Leisure Group. But he seems in his element working the floor of his own joint, on our visit marshaling the front of house, greeting guests and casting an eye over the operation. An owner who rolls up their sleeves, rather than perching at the end of the bar, is always a good sign.

Il Lido is a rarity. While it’s worthy of mention in the same breath as the city’s best, with a menu that takes the same casual Italian bent as, say, Lalla Rookh, albeit more rustic in its delivery, you wouldn’t know the chef. That’s Roberto Zampogna, by the way, and he’s showing some serious game.

A generous plate of cuttlefish, given a simple treatment on the grill, tossed with mixed leaves has char and not a great deal of chew. It’s classic coastal dining. A heaped and hearty capretto dish is the perfect sharer. The tender goat meat easing from the bone as you serve it amongst the table with tongs. It’s a dish that demands a bit of time and perhaps a pause midway.

The wine list is well-used, a blotch on the front cover a badge of honour for Wegener’s impeccable taste. The choice you face here is whether to visit the spiritual home of this Italian canteen or take a more local route – a fine glass of Barbera or perhaps the funkier Skinnie from Margaret River’s Dormilona? Take your time, ask for advice and enjoy the journey.

Whilst most restaurants are defined by the kitchen, and indeed the chef, at II Lido it’s the whole package, and the return of the restaurateur as king.