Some people search their entire lives for pure contentment. But perhaps all they need is the pappardelle goat ragu and a glass of Italian barbera at New Farm’s Bar Alto.

Al dente ribbons of pasta curl through a robust tomato sauce rich with chunks of goat meat that yield at the touch of a fork, delivering a little unadulterated pleasure with each bite. Meanwhile, the barbera from the Italian-centric, well-priced wine list ensures you reach a state of bliss.

It’s a lot of praise to place on one dish, but there’s a reason it’s been on this riverside restaurant’s menu for a decade.

Aside from new tables and perhaps a coat of paint, little about the buzzy space has changed since its opening. But somehow, it remains modern and inviting with raw floors, an exposed ceiling and distressed concrete beams that fit into its Powerhouse location.

Staff move effortlessly between tables, helping to calm any angst caused by slight delays from the kitchen.

A saltimbocca quail salad is an elegant twist on the traditional veal dish, with pieces of the broken down bird swathed with sage leaves and cocooned in prosciutto. The dish shines in a buttery glaze, while orange segments and a mix of balsamic-dressed leaves add freshness.

Tempura zucchini flowers promise the fromage wonder that is La Tur made from sheep’s, cow’s and goat’s milk, but are disappointingly a little stingy on the cheese, leaving the dish slightly bland.

There are no such generosity issues with the gnocchi, however, as an abundance of crab meat garnishes the butter-soft potato dumplings in a bisque-style broth.

Mains include salmon, calf’s liver and lamb loin with figs, or dishes to share such as an 850g T-bone. But for my money, it’s all about that ragu.