There can’t be many neighbourhoods in Sydney without an Italian restaurant. Australians are smitten by Italy when it comes to food – spaghetti bolognese anyone? But as our food culture has evolved so has our expectations for the humble local eatery.

Redfern once had the modern Korean Moon Park and still boasts the popular Israeli eatery Kepos St Kitchen, but the colourful suburb has had even more of a gastronomic gentrification recently. Not the questionable heights of haute, but restaurants that elevate everyday eating. Bart Jr and Misfits, for instance, and now Isaac, an Italian restaurant garnished with Middle Eastern spices. It’s a wonderful little space. A glass door opens to a big concrete bar, rows of dark Bentwood chairs and floors paved in black and white marble.

Among the starters, skip the porcini arancini for the more standout contenders – white bean and smoked butter hummus dip, veal and lamb meatballs wrapped in charred eggplant lolling in a rich tomato sauce, and fresh figs and onion marmalade playing off the textural delight of grilled sheep’s milk haloumi.

When it comes to the main courses, veal cotoletta looks the part, and the accompanying salad of kale and butter beans is great, but the cutlet is let down by a crumb plastered so thick you need to excavate the meat through a centimetre of raw bread. No thanks.

The pappardelle, however, is a lovely dish – egg yolk-rich ribbons looping through prawns, fried capers, chilli, cherry tomatoes and prawn bisque. Spot on.

The place could do with an extra pair of hands on the floor, but the welcome is warm and the largely Italian wine list is stocked with quaffable and affordable drops. The success of local restaurants has a lot to do with getting the little things right – and for the most part Isaac has them covered.