It was a wonder when I first arrived in Perth, some years ago, that the coast wasn’t awash with good eating. There were options, but not the numbers you’d expect when the coast is your city’s drawcard. Then, over time, a new breed emerged. Modern coastal dining had arrived.

Now there’s a plethora of coastal options, and it has to be said: not all are created equal. Among the pack, Island Market at Trigg. Part of the Kailis Hospitality Group, the casual diner is a sister venue to The Shorehouse at Swanbourne. There are few names that say seafood in the West like Kailis; the family, in some form or another, has been in the fish trade for more than 50 years.

If faux-Hamptons is The Shorehouse’s direction, then Island Market is mining Miami via the Med; a soundtrack of friendly beats alongside seaside eats. I know which I prefer.

One of few places I’ve seen where the diners blend perfectly with the décor, a pastel palate rules here with pinks and light greys, the wall-hung neon shining bright, the sun over the Indian Ocean almost part of the scheme, with high ceilings in white and windows running the length for ocean views that bathe the space in light. It’s a modern, coastal space, that may be taking inspiration from elsewhere but is so very Perth.

A window seat puts us within view of not just the ocean, but the selfie strip. A girl poses and pouts, the Indian Ocean behind her. Another, I’m assuming with video engaged, spins like a whirling dervish, phone held high and camera fixed on her face. She’s a pro, pleased with her one take, albeit almost taking out several joggers in her wake.

The menu is touted as Levantine, but there’s a wider spread of the Med and beyond, given a helping hand by consultant chef David Coomer.

Freshly baked pita hits the table in branded cardboard boxes, which I’m assuming is partly to keep a bit of heat in, but I’m left wondering whether these are single use. I’m not wondering for long, tearing strips and scooping up five-buck baba ghanoush, pressing the pita into the pan holding a good serve of wood-roasted chorizo. A side plate of local green olives and housemade ‘island pickles’ completes a mix and match line-up of entrées. It could easily serve as a light meal. The baba ghanoush lacks an essential depth, but as with most things, a hit of lemon, from the chorizo, gives it a sufficient lift.

There’s a good showing on the menu of wood-grilled land proteins – lamb, beef, pork and chicken – but the action is ocean side with dishes like oysters, Geraldton hiramasa crudo, market fish and fried calamari.

Barbecue octopus is something that will always draw me in. Island Market’s rendition sings with prueba del chorizo, marinated artichoke, piquillo pepper, a puffed tendon or light chicharrón, and a salsa verde. It seems to have some northern Spanish leanings, drawing perhaps on Coomer’s old Pata Negra playbook. There’s a lot going on and I’d like to see more of the octopus, but that said, it’s doubtless a seller. A good-looking dish; perfect for the diners of the selfie strip.

A bright, light salad of cabbage, fennel, cucumber and pine nuts offers welcome freshness and a contrast against the standout dish: a charcoal-black serve of rice and cuttlefish. Essentially arroz negro – bomba rice blackened by (I’m assuming) cuttlefish ink. It’s sweet and salty, with texture from the rice and the cuttlefish; the smell takes me to holidays on the Med. The stark black dish is broken with a wedge of lemon and a punchy aioli. A destination dish if ever there was one.