Pasquale Trimboli’s bustling fine-ish diner is one hell of an electric, intimate and heartwarming dining experience. The food is as honourably traditional as it is convincingly contemporary; add the smoky, charred, malleable woodfired pizzas – the diavola is a must – to his take on the Italian cucina. South Coast sardines wade in a puddle of orange, pine nuts and currants, while just-cooked Hawkesbury River calamari are exquisite with the sharpness of radicchio and heat of fermented chilli.