Cantonese has played an important role in the formation of our culinary landscape. Certainly during the ’80s and ’90s it would be rare to find a suburb without a local Chinese.

Jade Temple, part of Neil Perry’s Rockpool Dining Group, serves up Cantonese-style cuisine that honours fond childhood memories. Prawn toast, beef in black bean sauce and Mongolian lamb – all suburban stars – are given a contemporary twist without losing any substance. But the extensive menu demands a feast far beyond such staples.

Housed in the former Eleven Bridge (and Rockpool c1989) site, Jade Temple embodies a southeast Asian colonial motif – think cane chairs, plantation shutters, bamboo chandeliers, Chinese cloths and open mezzanine – that better suits the cavernous character of the historic building than previous incarnations.

After Rockpool, Wokpool, XO and Spice Temple, Perry knows how to rock the woks. Here, with head chef Peter Robertson, they deliver a stunning spin on Cantonese. There’s an impressive line-up of roasted ducks, pork, and barbecued meats as well as top-quality seafood, and even yum cha during the day.

Marinated cucumbers, black fungi and garlic kick things off before honey king prawns give an audible crunch from first to last bite. Glassy duck skin stars on duck pancakes, while slices of beef join shiitake in a deep, umami black bean sauce.

With bang-on flavours and service that’s hard to fault, Jade Temple joins Mr Wong as a leader of the Cantonese revival from the ‘burbs to best.

Must-eat dish: Mongolian lamb with cumin
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