A moody dining room with terrazzo concrete floors, sleek blonde timber tables and large warehouse windows that overlook a cobblestone South Melbourne laneway.

Then comes the food, which dials everything up. Head chef Sangsoo Kim marries his Korean heritage with Australian native ingredients in unlikely, delicious ways at this day-to-night eatery that’s been serving folk since 2019.

Food presentation is as polished as the interiors: hiding under mussel powder-dusted buckwheat wafers, cured kingfish and lemon myrtle is almost too pretty to eat, as is the miso custard buried beneath an almond and chocolate crumble and crowned with a snow white yoghurt ice cream quenelle.

Kim’s wild flavours are worth the visit alone, even if he has trouble taming them at times. A slightly overcooked Murray cod fillet loses the battle to punchy gochuchang emulsion and tangy muntrie relish, but is redeemed with JAMES’ signature potato cake that’s whacked in the fryer, dusted in salted vinegar powder and served with flavour-bomb black garlic mayo.

A tight wine list keeps it simple and food-friendly. JAMES takes the neighbourhood eatery to daring heights, challenging our appreciation of ingredients from our own backyard and abroad.

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