I’m not an official card-carrying member of the ‘offal is king’ club – I can certainly do without the pungent peculiarity of kidneys, thank you very much. But there are some innards that get my own insides smiling – chicken hearts, for instance.

They’re not exactly a cultural delicacy in these parts, but when fresh and gently charred, as served at Adelaide’s Shobosho, they are hard to beat.

Owned by Simon Kardachi (Osteria Oggi, Press), Shobosho (Japanese for fire station) is a convergence of the yakitori (food on skewers) and izakaya (bar food) worlds of Japanese cuisine, with a contemporary Australian aesthetic.

There’s a great energy from the moment you walk in. The dining room is built around the kitchen where the theatre of food preparation is headed by chef Adam Liston (ex-Northern Light).

Adelaide design house Studio Gram has filled the space with neon lights, burnt and blond woods, and illuminated lanterns. There are booths and communal tables, but prime position is at the kitchen counter to watch the cooking spectacle.

There is a genuine sense, too, that staff are looking after you, not just serving you. Sommelier Joshua Picken (ex-Orana), for example, is not only on the money with an interesting drink list, but offers considered pairing advice without the pomp. Phew!

The food is not strictly influenced by Japan. Korea and Taiwan get a seat at the table, too. Liston has been threatening to make his mark and here, it seems, he will. The menu offers yakitori, dumplings, robata grill and spit roast, allowing you to spend as little, or as much, as you desire.

Cubes of raw yellowfin tuna and charred edamame top puffed black rice and a smoked bonito cream. Highlights of soy, yuzu juice and Korean laver (seaweed) bring an umami hit. Crisp Korean chilli beef pot stickers are filled with Wagyu mince, chopped chilli, spring onion oil and kimchi juice, and have bags of flavour.

Chicken thighs and spring onion are a delight after a quick kiss from the binchotan coals and a sprinkle of togarashi seasoning. Meanwhile, leeks burnt over coals and left to steam are superbly sweet. Kyoto green onion oil and smoked buttermilk help complete the earthy dish.

There are bigger plates, too. Korean bo ssam and all its condiments and lettuce cups manifests with slivers of dry-aged rump arriving on hot coals. A Boston Bay Smallgoods pork chop is blackened on the outside and pleasingly pink inside. Although I’d like more of the fat for flavour, the charred wombok, white miso, pickled carrots and a good splash of teriyaki provide a nice foundation.

Shobosho is already hitting the spot and will no doubt get better and better in the coming months. I can’t wait to go back.