A restaurant above a refurbed shopping centre that caters to harried parents with children in tow isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. We all like restaurants for different reasons. What matters is how well it executes what it set out to achieve. Jensen’s Restaurant, in the leafy shire suburb of Kareela, is a perfect example of the premise.

It’s a resurrection of sorts, started in 1990 by restaurateur Carl Jensen (Summer Salt, Bella Costa, Naked Grape) just a stone’s throw from this new site.

Once inside this bright, coastal chic bar and diner, you’d barely know others are gathering groceries downstairs. It’s the sort of place where parents with young children go for a night out, and today it’s packed with happy families.

The sincere waitstaff are a strong suit, there’s a great bar, and a lovely al fresco area too. It’s full of families out for a special occasion. The fairly safe Mod Oz menu certainly accommodates that. I’m a little perplexed as to why every dish is served on a stand, though. No one needs food elevated onto a podium, even if sharing. It’s naff.

Nevertheless, zucchini flowers are fried, drizzled in honey and showered in pecorino – a light, sweet and crunchy delight. A spot-on beurre blanc underpins three skinless fillets of John Dory garnished with wisps of crisps and roasted and pureed carrots. But the pepperoni pizza is disappointing. The base is a soggy mess and the cheese is melted on top of the pepperoni, which steams rather than crisps up. Torn mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and a mint verde is just a confusing cold garnish.

Thankfully a fried apple pie and maple ice cream restores order. And although Jensen’s may not be my kind of restaurant – until I have kids, perhaps – it’s added spark to the shire, and will be a great night out for many.