Its reputation built through more than three decades of service has made it an automatic choice for many celebrating special occasions. However, repeated recent changes in kitchen personnel seem to have resulted in a menu that, at this stage, is lacking clear culinary direction and is in need of an alluring narrative.

Hiramasa kingfish sashimi is presented with pickled daikon, avocado and a dashi dressing, while scallops on the half-shell are paired with apple and guanciale. A slice of pork belly is accompanied by a traditional apple jam, along with a cider and miso broth.

Main dishes are on the conservative side and mostly built around hero proteins – whiting with zucchini and caper sauce, sirloin steak with pickled mushrooms, roasted lamb shoulder with fermented chilli. You’ll also need costly side dishes, and $12 for a warm roll, to complete the meal.

Crisp floor service and a pleasant atmosphere in the room affording grand river views help compensate for the prices but more consistency in the kitchen is required to take Jolleys back to the status it previously held.

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