Jolley’s has long been a special place, no matter the season or time of day.  On a warm spring afternoon, the deck is the perfect spot to relax as joggers and cyclists pass by and Popeye cruises back and forth on the river. At night the lights from the King William St bridge and Adelaide Oval create an equally tranquil setting.

Inside, everything is ship-shape, from the polished jarrah floor and wood-panelled walls, to the exceptional, we-refuse-to-rest-on-our-laurels service.

A modern Australian menu – some of which hasn’t changed much in years – will take you on a journey from Thailand, to Italy, Morocco, England and Spain.

Kingfish sashimi makes a delicate starter, its green chili dressing balanced with coconut cream, while pearls of red finger lime add colour and zing.

Ricotta and spinach gnudi are also surprisingly light, the airy dumplings grounded in a fresh garlicky tomato sauce, cut through with little dollops of basil pesto.

A mild red curry of duck has been slow-cooked for hours, the tender meat falling off the bone and into a pool of peanut and coconut-spiked sauce that’s so delicious, you’ll want to scoop up every last bit with the accompanying rice.

The caramelized pork belly, however, is the pick of the mains, the fat nicely rendered, a sharp crackle to the skin, the opulence of the meat balanced nicely with a light papaya, chili, peanut and herb salad.

Roast peanut and caramel semifreddo is a decadent finish to the meal and, paired with puddles of creamy peanut ganache and chocolate crackle shard, it’s like diving into a giant Snickers bar.