Sitting out front are the hip young things, people-watching from their footpath perch, and family groups – the kids content with their chicken-and-gravy rolls. Inside, local office workers roll up their sleeves to feast across a range of dishes – and there lies the best way to enjoy the menu.

Sure, Joybird does a fine version of chargrilled chook, but the real magic is in the ever-changing starters and wood-fired sides.

A stuffing butty is the stuff of hangover dreams – a herby, lightly-fried mix sandwiched in soft, white bread and served with chicken bone gravy for dipping. Scotch egg is as good as it gets, its gooey-yolk centre enchased in perfectly seasoned chicken mince and a crunchy golden crumb.

You’ll want to make friends with both salads and veg here, from the wedges of crisp iceberg that are dressed with anchovy mayo, capers, soft boiled egg and crisp chicken skin, to an unctuous, scorched cabbage that’s loaded with nutty pesto.

Larger items might include middle eastern lamb shoulder or yiros, the latter boasting incredible slow-cooked lamb, lightly pickled cucumber among more typical salady bits, a special not-so-hot sauce and chips, which add texture you never knew you wanted.

Wash it down with a can of craft beer and you might not visit another chicken shop again.