With the same owners as New Farm’s Beccofino, this stylish, wood-floored Italian eatery serves up the pizzas, anti-pasti and pastas that draw big crowds and long queues. There’s no bookings and the wait can be over an hour some nights but they’ll take your number and you can find a drink at one of Fish Lane’s many nearby bars.

Once seated, staff are pleasant but no-nonsense and meals arrive with surprisingly speed. Start with anti-pasti, say, for instance, deep fried, delicate zucchini flowers stuffed with herbed ricotta and placed on a sticky layer of truffled honey and pecorino. The menu makes slight variations with the season but the duck ragu always remains, its rich, slow cooked meaty sauce is stirred through wide noodles of al dente pappardelle.

Pizza at Julius is a serious matter and it’s seriously good. Dough ferments for 36-48 hours, is dressed sparingly with ingredients that taste like they come straight from the farm and finished in a wood-fired oven. Keep it simple with the marinara deluxe – tomato, oregano, garlic and buffalo mozzarella – or try a “bianche” or white base with local tiger prawns, cherry tomatoes, garlic and chilli. The largely Italian wine list complements well with a decent selection by the glass, and they do a cracking Aperol spritz.

Exceptional dish: Duck ragu