In the Old Dart Jason Atherton is bordering on a household name, but he is a relative newbie on our shores. And in the kitchen ex-Felix chef Robert Daniels is steering the ship in accordance with Atherton’s brief of contemporary British.

Delicate squid ink crackers act as a spoon to scoop a light roe emulsion, a la taramasalata, topped by trout roe. Beef tartare benefits from horseradish and beetroot jam. Then tataki kingfish hides under pickled kohlrabi and togarashi.

Celery root cream and fennel play perfect partners to grilled swordfish. And there’s no

Must eat: Social “dog”, pork and fennel sausage, green apple, black pudding, cheddar