The tender, unctuous meat lurking in a rich sauce with potato chunks and pickled ginger for company is an eye-widening combination, enhanced by cleaning the bowl with chunks of flaky roti.

Kid Curry, as its name suggests, also serves other curries such as butter chicken, confit duck rendang and rogan josh, but its broad pan-Asian sweep offers more delicate dishes as well, like a terrific grilled prawn salad or grilled octopus with glass noodles, pork and nahm jim. Starters vary from kingfish cured in coconut vinegar to a fried chicken sandwich or a take on Malaysian-style curry puffs, which are bulging pastry crescents stuffed with spiced vegetables.

The wine list is a clipped collection of almost entirely European, small-producer options, a couple of Japanese beers and four Asian-influenced highball cocktails. The decor is laid-back with timber-lined walls, concrete floors and bare tables and service is welcoming and efficient, with dishes arriving quickly.

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