For all the spit and polish of restaurants at the pointy end, there are many more delivering the sort of comforting, culinary hug you crave on the regular. The old restaurant cliche of the wonders of a warm welcome being akin to arriving in someone’s home is true here at Kindred.

And, boy, can chef Matt Pollock cook. The warm feeling reaches far beyond what arrives on the plate. It’s been a real family affair every step of the way, and you can feel it on the receiving end as you sit at the table. Pollock purchased the building, moved into the first floor with his wife and child. He built the restaurant with his father-in-law and now the split-level corner space is a very homely mix of wooden bannisters, classic bistro chairs, polished concrete floors, open-plan kitchen and a neat wine area below the stairs that houses very affordable array of the nation’s best organic, biodynamic and natural wines.

Pollock’s Italian-inspired menu clearly relies on a lot of labour – they’re making everything from mustards, sausages, gelato, preserves, sourdough, cultured butter, pasta, ricotta and even sodas for the bar in-house, as well as growing their own micro greens in the garden, too.

The colour, crunch and twang of new season pickled vegetables gets the taste buds humming before a peppery rocket puree and fermented chilli provide a stellar foundation for charred octopus. Pillowy gnocchi comes tossed in the salty joy of capers and olives, slightly mellowed by torn mozzarella, while peas and cavolo nero provide a fresh element to rich, braised beef cheeks. This is real food, made with a big heart – if only we all had a local like this.

Must eat dish: Pappardelle, lamb ragu, seasonal greens
Instagram: @kindred_restaurant