It’s back. Reborn in a new site, feeding new clientele, but bestowing the soul of Mike McEnearney’s real, honest food foundation that he built his name on. Farm-to-table, elevated everyday eats, whatever you want to call it, Kitchen By Mike has taken over the space of his former No1 Bent Street to deliver the city his trademark queue-before-you-chew canteen-style offering.

Amongst the heave-ho of the financial district, the small space is highlighted by the industrial chic of timber tables, concrete floors and exposed ceilings. An al a carte menu is offered at dinner, but the real joy comes at lunch with an array of colours and flavours to choose from. So join the queue, select a wine, then get all pointy with your finger towards the produce de jour that staff happily fill your enamel plate with. The combinations are familiar, comforting and delivered with casual flair and generosity ladled on top. A typical lunch may offer smoky wood-fired roast chook with harissa and fioretto cauliflower. Or perhaps blue mackerel topped with olive tapenade; pine mushrooms lathered in curry butter; or a cabbage, apple and walnut slaw. There’s a cool kale spin on Caesar salad and wood-roasted sweet pumpkin with pomegranate molasses and nigella-spice yoghurt. To finish off, a $5 slice of fine apple tart and a spoonful of chantilly. Yes, please.