Don’t let its casino location throw you, this modern, boundary-pushing Japanese restaurant is worth taking a gamble on. Masculine and moody with distinct Asian accents, Kiyomi’s sharp and polished fit out reflects the menu on offer from executive chef and Nobu alumnus Chase Kojima. It is contemporary cuisine elevated through the use of stunning, top-notch produce, as in the ocean trout tataki – the gently seared fish meltingly fresh with its fattiness balanced by a sharp chilli vinaigrette-dressed micro salad. Thinly sliced snapper is another example of letting great produce do all the work. The fish sings on the plate, lightly salted with just a splash of white soy, while a sprinkling of dukkah creates textural interest.

Spicy tuna crispy rice has become a signature, and with good reason, featuring pan-fried sushi rice cradling a slick of mildly spiced kewpie and crowned with a sliver of rosy tuna. While a sushi roll packed with wagyu tartare and topped with a wafer of seared beef provides a unique spin on traditional sushi.

Set menus provide terrific value for money starting at $75 per head, while the ever-changing specials give the kitchen a chance to shine with new ingredients and ideas, perhaps a whisky-infused chocolate mousse with crumbly chocolate brownie, whiskey ice cream, banana and a peanut biscuit.

Charismatic, well-informed staff and an abundant drinks list that extends beyond interesting wines to a smart array of hot and cold sakes, cracking cocktails and spirits, put Kiyomi on a winning streak.

Must-eat dish: Ocean trout tataki