There have been some big changes of late at Kiyomi, The Star Gold Coast’s signature Japanese restaurant.

While Sydney-based executive chef Chase Kojima remains the man calling the shots, former head chef Adam Lane’s move to Yamagen at QT Gold Coast saw Kojima send up Lenny Lim, head sushi chef of Kiyomi’s sister eatery Sokyo at The Star Sydney, as well as Yonge Kim (Sake, Melbourne) as chef de cuisine.

And the fresh team makes for a fresh menu, albeit with the same commitment to delivering quality ingredients in contemporary ways.

Just like the handsome, moody fit-out dominated by sharp lines and modern accents, the food is polished.

Take, for example, the ocean trout tataki. The fish arrives gently seared and meltingly fresh, its fattiness balanced by a sharp chilli vinaigrette-dressed micro salad. It’s pure and simple perfection, as is the spicy tuna rice. Having become a bit of a signature of the restaurant, it features pan-fried sushi rice, moulded into a block, cradling a slick of mildly spiced Kewpie and crowned with a sliver of rosy tuna.

Tempura Moreton Bay bug is ethereally light, while duck cooked over binchotan charcoal is charry with crispy brussels sprouts providing balance, and an umami-spiked puree adding complexity.

With so much to sample, the charismatic and engaging staff happily provide advice on navigating the menu, or simply take the easy and value-packed option of one of the set menus starting at $75 per head for nine dishes to be shared between two.

With an abundant drinks list that extends from interesting, top-notch wines to a smart array of hot and cold sakes, cracking cocktails and spirits, Kiyomi delivers a winning hand.