Intimate and relaxed, sophisticated yet casual, restaurateur Paul McGivern’s South Brisbane wine bar is a space for all occasions.

Guests can walk straight off the thriving eat street that is Fish Lane, pull up a dark timber stool at the bar or a seat along the banquette and enjoy a few after-work drinks and bites, or book the semi-private elevated dining room for a special occasion.

Either way, they’re sure to be looked after by the polished, well-informed staff, who confidently offer wine pairings to the contemporary, clever and ever evolving culinary offering from chef Pete Moon.

Start, perhaps, with a glass of Monte Tondo soave from the constricted but smartly composed and diverse vino collection, paired with the red curry flavours of a Thai romesco that adds pep to tentacles of tender octopus.

Or embrace a taste of Australiana with kangaroo tartare accompanied by salty sweet black olive jam, waves of lightly smoked shaved celeriac and chewy bread for layering.

The snack-style menu also includes dishes that could be eaten as individual mains, such as the globe artichoke risotto — tangy and creamy with tones of bitter sweetness from liquid black garlic.

Understated yet self-assured, La Lune Wine Co is the neighbourhood bar worth moving suburbs for.

Exceptional dish: Artichoke risotto