Tour guide and co-owner Bailee Dewes is esteemed at matching guests with their ideal wine from the eatery’s European-centric list that moves from small artisan makers to big-name producers, each offering interesting and delicious expressions of old-world styles.

While the wine may be designed to be the hero here, the food refuses to take a back seat. Under head chef and co-owner Paul McGivern’s directions, the European-influenced, succinct, share-style menu is an exercise in simplicity and deft technique.

Yellowtail kingfish tastes like it’s been plucked straight from the ocean, cut thickly for meatiness, and balanced by the punch of pickled kohlrabi and the citrusy kick of jammy yuzu kosho. Or there are the unmissable black lip mussels, baked with nubs of pork and fennel sausage, a scattering of breadcrumbs and garlicky butter, which melts to form the must-drink sauce.

La Lune Wine Co is a quiet achiever in Brisbane’s dining scene, but with unpretentious, sophisticated food and brilliant staff, it’s a destination worth shouting about.

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