Vino was always designed to be the star attraction at Paul McGivern’s new South Brisbane venture La Lune Wine Co.

Sommelier Olivia Evans has put together an impressive wine list – diverse, smart and sexy with something to suit all tastes and budgets, from a $9 glass of Airlie Bank pinot noir to a $640 bottle of 2014 Domaine Dujac burgundy.

With the approachable staff flaunting an extensive knowledge of the 120-bottle offering, it’s best to simply take a seat at the pared-back wine bar – modern but with French accents – and let them take care of the rest.

As for the food, while it may have been intended as the support act, chef Peter Moon (ex-Anise) has it stealing the show – an impressive feat with no gas oven, burners or extraction fan on site.

From the raw section of the menu, diced tuna arrives in witlof boats garnished with wafer-thin radish and rounds of kiwifruit, which provide sweet, citrus-like notes. Meanwhile, a trio of beets comes with shavings of raw cauliflower and a creamy yeasted cauliflower puree, plus a sprinkling of crunchy black rice for nuttiness.

A charcuterie section offers cured meats as well as a sensational kangaroo tartare. Kangaroo can be a little intense raw, but the pungent gaminess is cleverly tamed by cocoa dukkah, slivers of smoked celeriac and hints of juniper.

Rabbit also features as a firmly set terrine on a spread of pistachio puree. Though the absence of crispbread was initially lamented, whole pistachios and al dente baby carrots provide all the textural contrast necessary.

Veal tongue on the specials menu is too good to pass up, served with cubes of caramelised pumpkin, a harmonious pumpkin puree and cress salad.

With the recent closure of acclaimed Brisbane wine bar Anise, La Lune is just what the city needs.