The ascension of Le Rebelle to the upper echelons of Perth’s dining scene has been instantaneous and well deserved. Liam and Sarah Atkinson, on the pans and front of house respectively, are names in the Perth dining scene. Liam as former executive chef at the short-lived Ku De Ta and Sarah, a somm on the rise, previously at Lalla Rookh. Le Rebelle is their take on the bistro tradition and they’ve nailed it.

Plump double-spiced shrimp, hot and crisp, are served with a

slaw of Savoy cabbage, zucchini and micro herbs. Dressed lightly with a brandy cocktail sauce, it’s a simple lesson in less is more.

There’s brioche toast with blue manna crab and lemon mayo capturing the imagination of diners and critics: it’s a signature dish in the making. Atkinson is obviously having fun.

Sarah brings her wine expertise to bear here on a list that’s as approachable as it is interesting, showing this to be as much about the neighbourhood market as it is the scenesters.