The former Billy Kwong and Berta chef turned the bowl-shaped crepes into one of the city’s most sought-after dishes, and they’re still a must-order when you visit Lankan Filling Station. This is a hands-on dining experience. Simply tear off the crisp, lacy edges of the hoppers and swipe them into the red lentil dahl, lifted with lemongrass and the beef black curry, rich with dry-roasted spice. Sprinkle with pol sambol for a cooling coconut hit.

At risk of toppling the hoppers from their top spot are the pan rolls. These crisp golden cigars are made from spiced beef wrapped in pancake then breaded and fried, served with fermented chilli sauce. The set menu will force you to order the cabbage mallung, and that’s no bad thing. Shreds of savoy wok-tossed with mustard seeds and ghee results in a buttery, rich side that you’ll want to pile on everything.

To finish, coconut sorbet with milk toffee is the Sri Lankan equivalent of hokey pokey, only better. Lankan Filling Station proves once again it’s not a one-hit wonder. Come for the hoppers and stay for everything else. 

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