The opening of Beaufort Street bar come bistro Le Rebelle, sees not only a chink of light in a bleak few months for the once bright light of Perth eat-streets, but also permanent digs for one of Perth’s best young chefs.

Closures have come thick and fast on Beaufort Street, and across the city, from fine diners to neighbourhood bars and chains. It’s seemed that no one is immune. Liam Atkinson it’s fair to say is no stranger to high profile closures. Sous chef at Print Hall when it closed its doors – at the time, critically acclaimed – and then as Executive Chef of Ku De Ta’s short-lived WA landfall, when, in another shock move it also shut up shop.

Under Atkinson’s brief tenure, first as Ku Dining head chef and then Executive Chef of the whole concern, there was huge promise. Atkinson had, I felt, stepped into the limelight. Seeing that cut short was a real shame.

So it takes some steel to open amidst an undoubted dining downturn. But, Atkinson isn’t doing it alone.   Anyone familiar with the Perth wine scene will know Sarah Atkinson, Liam’s other half and co-owner at Le Rebelle. Until recently she was a reliable source of vinous inspiration at Lalla Rookh Wine Store; a Somm on the up.

Between them, fate in their own hands, they’ve made an impressive start. It’s week two when we visit. You wouldn’t know. The menu feels well honed, confident and not simply a bowerbird concoction of everything else that’s happening in hospo-land. The wine list as you’d expect is strong, and appropriate for its inner-suburban audience.

It’s not even 5pm on a Tuesday and tables are filling up. The pair has been hands on in the refurb of the space which steps up from street level, a long thin bar and dining room that fills quickly. As night falls, so do the lights and it’s got that magic feel. Word is out and the rush to Le Rebelle has begun.

Crudités, show a little more interest than a cold presentation, with deep-fried artichoke, celtuce and heirloom carrot amongst the bounty. My dining wingman – a journeyman chef weeks from an opening – simply says “banging”, wide-eyed and no doubt working out what’s gone into this orange flavour-bomb, described on the menu as “Ultimate Dipping Sauce.” No arguments there. Roasted red capsicum, fermented tofu and a topping of hijiki (seaweed) is the answer.

Simple grilled brioche toast heaped with Blue Manna crab has the air of a menu staple to come. Buttery, with tones of the sweet crustacean, it’s all balanced with a lemon mayo and pickle. A duck liver parfait, with truffle butter ups the ante on indulgence, and is true to Le Rebelle’s bistro, albeit neo, roots.

Potato negro, chilli pepper squid draws instant interest—a standout dish. Essentially a potato risotto: a simple enough idea, but one that could so easily fall flat (potato dice cooked over or under), but hits the mark on bite. Topped with chilli pepper squid, it’s one I’ll go back to.

There’s little to quibble over. On the whole, a winner frites pomme Anna with kombu cream has the addition of a sweet seaweed which jars somewhat, but it’s a minuscule point in a meal of highs. Aged beef fillet with sautéed mushrooms and peppercorn sauce is just very good cooking. No faff, no modern twist.

Sarah Atkinson, offers up a chocolate tart with peanuts, salt and mascarpone. A weak refusal is soon overcome and good job too. Another go-to.

Le Rebelle has the neighbourhood vibe and lack of pretension that should see it draw more than those constantly on the hunt for the new thing. What they’ve achieved in a few short weeks – albeit in gestation for years – stands them in good stead for the future.