Change tends to happen in spates. Whether it’s that the moving on of one chef, makes another wonder whether the grass is greener, I don’t know. I’ve stopped trying to second-guess what goes on in the mind of chefs. What I do know is that it offers new promise; hopefully fulfilled. In the south-west, Brendan Pratt ably took the helm at Vasse Felix, when Aaron Carr moved on to his own joint, Yarri in Dunsborough; and Blair Allen made the transition spectacularly from Piari & Co to Amelia Park Restaurant.

But one we didn’t see coming is the departure of Dany Angove from Leeuwin Estate. Angove had been there for decades; carving a reputation as one of the regions most dependable chefs. On past visits, Angove’s menu was comfortable, in that it wasn’t boasting the latest technique cribbed from a Chef’s Table episode; just well-executed dishes that offered little dining shock and awe. That sounds like a slight, but trust me, more chefs should be concerned with doing justice to their ingredients and not their egos.

 So, which way would Leeuwin go was the thought. Bring in a big hitter? Chase a trend or three? Confirming them as one of the smartest operators in the Margaret River region, the family-owned estate didn’t look much further for a replacement than a couple of kilometres down the road, elevating one-time head chef at Watershed Wines, Dan Gedge. There was little fanfare. Another smart move. While the modern city restaurant often lives and dies on the volume of its PR, it doesn’t always pay to shout change from the rooftops.

Gedge is no culinary newcomer. He served his apprenticeship under Rick Stein at his flagship Cornish fine diner, The Seafood Restaurant, and its clear from his first crack at a Leeuwin menu that his time with the Stein’s has influenced him; a perfect match for his new digs. I recall a conversation with Jack Stein, son of Rick and Chef Director of the growing Stein empire, on the philosophy of his dad, instilled through the ranks. It hangs on good ingredients, relationships with your suppliers and respecting what that gives you. A simple produce driven approach that Stein pushed in the UK long before it became a by-word for honest cooking.

Gedge isn’t pushing boundaries – for the south-west at least – but what he’s doing, he’s doing very well. A rustic board carries a Wagin duck as silken pate, firm rillettes and a generous cured breast. Sitting on the entrée menu at $36 you’re probably going to share this, but I’d happily tackle it alone; a few glasses taken for good measure.

The entrees are standout savoury dishes. A bright Manjimup rainbow trout, with a subtle lift of beetroot, horseradish and mandarin. A bold Margaret River wagyu, served jet black with a crust of powdered black bean; a smoked oyster cream gives another umami punch and then there’s the now ubiquitous beef tendon cracker.

Gedge takes a less than typical approach with a marron, halved and served shell on, using the mild heat of a vadouvan – a French spice mix with Indian origins – sweet pumpkin and coconut. Sufficiently different to the 1001 marron dishes you’ll find in WA restaurants.

A 45 day dry aged Black Angus sirloin is well executed but ultimately falls short of the Wagyu entrée. While it would suit the culinary conservative, I’d order big from the entrée menu, save the dollars and pump them into the pricier end of the wine list; not forgetting to hit the sweeter side of the menu. Despite being done to death I can’t say no to a posh doughnut. Especially when there’s salted marmalade, and candied mandarin to bring it home.

The news of Gedge’s arrival may not have been pushed in the press but from this first look I think there’ll be plenty of time for that.